Alaska

The perfect 10-day trip through the 49th State of the United States!

Date of Travel: May 2024

This destination has long been on our bucket list, and wow, this 10-day trip has been nothing short of amazing! As always, this blog post will provide you with an overview of our trip, along with tips and recommendations to help you get the most out of your own journey. To keep it clear and precise, it is, like all our posts, divided into our well-established WH-sections: Why? When? What? Where? How?

So, WHY go to Alaska?

• Wildlife: Alaska’s wildlife is simply incredible. It feels like driving through a vast zoo. Just to give you an idea: During our 6-week trip through Norway and Finland, we were desperately searching for a moose. Well, eventually we found one – or rather, its butt. More on that in our blog post about Scandinavia soon. But that was it. No more moose sightings in Northern Europe for us. By contrast, in Alaska, we spotted two moose on our first day, with many more to follow. By the end, we lost count. We also saw bears, whales, seals, puffins – you name it! Now, we can’t guarantee you’ll see wildlife (because, hey, they’re wild), but the chances are incredibly high that you’re in for a wildlife treat in Alaska. And if you do, you might freeze in place just like this moose standing in the middle of the road, looking like a deer in headlights (see our picture from day five).


• Solitude: Often dubbed America’s “last frontier,” Alaska offers vast stretches of untouched land. Traveling this State gave us a sense of what it must have been like for our earliest ancestors when they first inhabited the planet. Let’s hope Alaska retains its pristine, unspoiled character for generations to come.


• Scenery: Honestly, you don’t have to endure long hikes or slogs to experience Alaska’s stunning scenery. Just drive along the main roads, and you’ll see plenty of it! Driving was probably one of our favorite parts of the trip.


• Glaciers: In the southern part of Alaska, you’ll find plenty of glaciers, and their sight is awe-inspiring. Unfortunately, they are retreating rapidly. Go and enjoy these glaciers while we still have the chance to witness them.


• Fishing: We’re newbies when it comes to fishing, but you simply can’t come to Alaska and miss out on this! Whether you’re an experienced angler or just a rookie like us, it’s a ton of fun. And, depending on the season, the odds are in your favor to catch some pretty impressive fish.


• … (many more reasons, that’s just our top 5)

WHEN to go to Alaska?

• Shoulder Season: We visited Alaska in late May and early June, which is before the main tourist season begins. You won’t see any salmon yet, as it’s too early in the season, which was a major drawback. However, prices are lower, the crowds haven’t arrived yet, and you can still see plenty of snow at higher elevations, which is beautiful. That said, it does get quite cold at night, and some hikes may not be accessible due to deep snow. On the glacier, pools have already formed at the end of May. From what we’ve heard, the beginning of September is supposed to be very nice as well.


• July: This is the perfect month if you want to witness bears fishing for salmon. However, prices are high, and many people flock to Alaska, which might diminish the “solitude” experience. August is supposed to be on the rainier side.

WHAT were our main highlights of this trip and what would we like to see next time?

Honestly, the whole trip was so amazing that it is really hard for us to pick the main highlights. It’s noteworthy that there’s no order to this list.

• Knik Glacier: Helicopter flight
• Chinitna Bay/Lake Clark: bear watching
• Wrangell-St. Elias National Park (flightseeing + the whole scenery, setting and vibe in McCarthy/Kennecott)
• Fishing in the Alaskan wilderness
• Saddle and Grewingk Lake hike
• Boat cruise in Kenai Fjords National Park
• Eagle watching at Anchor Point
• Hope: such a cute village that retained a non-touristy vibe
• Denali Viewpoint (if the weather cooperates!)

Returning to Alaska, we’d like to…

• drive up to Hatcher Pass (open typically as of July!) and conquer the Gold Mint Trail to the Mint Hut (which was too snowy in May).
• hike to the Harding Icefield (Exit Glacier; this trail was also too snowy in May).
• do ice kayaking at Valdez Glacier (unfortunately, the lake was still frozen when we were there)
• visit Kodiak Island
• fly to McNeil River for bear watching (lottery-based!)
• visit Denali NP (We’d heard mixed things about Denali NP; especially since the road had already been closed for years due to a landslide. We opted to just hit the viewpoint and instead do Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, both of which were simply amazing. Nevertheless, next time, if the entire road system were open, we would include Denali NP).
• Alaska Aviation Museum

So, WHERE did we go?

There are so many ways to travel Alaska. The south has the most infrastructure and is, therefore, the most accessible. Please find our detailed itinerary below.

Day 1: Anchorage – Knik Glacier

We started our adventure in Anchorage. We didn’t really get to explore the city due to our tight schedule, but from what we’ve heard, the Alaska Aviation Museum is highly recommended.

Our first stop was the Downtown Anchorage Viewpoint, right by the Cook Inlet, which treated us to sweeping views. Renting a bike and cycling down the Tony Knowles Costal Trail would be a great option there, provided the weather cooperates.

Before leaving Anchorage, we couldn’t miss visiting the Ulu Knife Factory. Granted, this is a rather touristy spot, but still worth checking out. Since we came in on the weekend, we decided to return at the end of our trip to catch a glimpse of the knife-making process, which you can only witness on weekdays through windows in the shop.

Hidden gem: Fire Island Rustic Bake Shop – delicious pastries and bread! We stocked up on bread here for the entire trip, and it still tasted great even after seven days!

From there, our journey took us north, more precisely to the Alaska Glacier Lodge. From there, we embarked on a private flightseeing tour of Knik Glacier, which included a glacier landing right in the middle of the ice. The tour started in the early afternoon and lasted for approximately 60 minutes. We chose to book with Alaska Helicopter Tours (https://www.alaskahelicoptertours.com/). Without exaggeration, this experience was one of, if not the highlight of our Alaska trip. Look at the pictures below – they speak a thousand words. Stepping out of the helicopter, in complete solitude, and spending about 30 minutes on thousand-year-old ice with azure blue glacier pools, was absolutely mind-blowing. Our guide was very knowledgeable and allowed us enough time to take pictures and simply take in the breathtaking scenery. He also gave us a few minutes to ourselves to fully enjoy the moment and provided us with crampons for a short hike (which was optional!) with him. The crevasses and almost surreal ice formations created by wind, water and the sun were stunning. Before leaving paradise, we filled up our water bottles with glacier water. Back in our van, we sat in the open door for a few minutes, silently processing the wonderful adventure we had just experienced. We were too happy to express our thoughts.

Even if you don’t plan on taking a helicopter ride, visiting the Knik River valley itself is very worthwhile. It’s a secluded area just about an hour from Anchorage, nestled up against the Chugach Mountains. Driving down Knik River Road is absolutely stunning and offers good chances to catch a glimpse of moose. We spotted two moose while driving back on the Knik River Road, one of which hung out in a particularly picturesque spot in a swampy area along the route. Well, it took us a day to spot our first moose in Alaska. Mission accomplished! Since Norway, they had been kind of in our bad books ;-).

Other interesting spots that we found noteworthy but didn’t visit: The Reindeer Farm/Musk Ox Farm, Eklutna Lake (especially, for kayaking).

Day 2: The Glenn Highway – Lion’s Head Hike – McCarthy Road – Wrangell-St. Elias National Park

One of the things we enjoyed most in Alaska was driving! In Alaska, there’s no need – at least that’s how we feel – to hike up the mountains to soak in great views. Just cruising down Alaska’s highways, Scenic Byways, and less-frequented country roads offers unforgettable sights. The Glenn Highway winds itself through the Mat-Su Valley. This iconic road is 135 miles in length and cuts through untouched nature.

We started our day with a hike (distance: 2.1 mi/ 3.4 km; elevation gain: 977 ft/ 298 m) to Lion’s Head. The starting point was the gravel area at the base. From there, we walked up a small path leading to three buildings, where the trail forked off to the right. This hike is not to be underestimated, although it was not a major challenge for us. The weather wasn’t kind to us, at least in the beginning. When we reached the peak, we were coated in fog with no view far and wide. However, some 30 minutes later, the fog – almost as if by a ghostly hand – thinned out and eventually disappeared, unveiling amazing views of the Matanuska Glacier. The glacier was right at our feet.

After a long drive, we reached Chitina (“Chit-na”), the gateway to the McCarthy Road. This gravel road is around 60 miles long and winds deep into Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, the largest national park on U.S. soil. The road snakes through a very remote area that stuns with vast wilderness and spectacular scenery. From a history perspective, this road follows a railway route that once connected the Kennecott Copper Mines to the nearest seaport. We highly recommend checking with your car/van rental company if they allow you to drive this road, as many companies prohibit it. We had to pay a surcharge, and it took us two hours to reach McCarthy. After hearing many (sometimes scary) stories, we found that it wasn’t that big of a deal, but our car was suited for this kind of road. Normal summer conditions allow for a pretty good drive. Along the road, we were rewarded with stunning river valley and mountain views as well as eagle sightings. Don’t plan on driving the road in and out in one day; spend at least one night in McCarthy.

A footbridge to McCarthy marks the end of the road. There is a parking lot right next to the bridge, where you can park your car and stay overnight (no showers; outhouse). We cannot really comment on the parking lot, as we didn’t stay there. We just crossed the lot and drove down to the glacier lake, where we found a very cute, hidden spot. Huge thanks to the very friendly Dutch and American couples we met that day, who recommended this gem to us.

Hidden gem: On the way to Chitina, you drive past an ox farm where you can see the animals right from the side of the road. They were so cute and not shy at all! We met two couples – one from the States and one from the Netherlands – who had only recently met and spontaneously decided to travel together for the rest of their Alaska trips. It was great talking to them, and they also shared some fantastic travel tips with us (which we can now share with you here in this post 🙂).

Day 3: Kennecott Mines National Historic Landmark – Relaxing

There is no vehicle access to McCarthy for travelers. In the morning, we crossed the footbridge and walked to McCarthy, which took us around 10 minutes. There are also shuttle buses that depart to both McCarthy and Kennecott at the end of the footbridge. After a quick stroll through McCarthy, a cute small village, we boarded the bus to Kennecott. It was pouring rain. After a bumpy 4-mile bus ride, we joined a guided ranger tour starting at the Kennecott Visitor Center through the mill. This tour is fantastic as you get to experience the inside of the mill, which is otherwise (for the most part) closed to visitors.

The mill is just stunning. You can witness history up close everywhere. Learning about the great demand for copper at the beginning of the 20th century, how it was used (to build ships, locomotives, automobiles, pipes, copper wires, etc.) and how it was produced was very interesting. It’s amazing how, in the heart of the Alaskan wilderness, an enterprise that large was being operated back in the day. Additionally, visiting the mining town that supported many families and hundreds of workers was fascinating. The vistas from the top of the towering mill are equally breathtaking. Inside the mill, we walked on creaky floorboards and winding catwalks to see various machinery, chutes, and ladders. There are several historical buildings with interesting museum exhibits that you can explore on your own without joining a tour. However, the mill itself is only accessible via a guided tour.

Our flightseeing trip for the afternoon was rescheduled for the next day due to bad weather. For the remainder of the day, we enjoyed some good food at The Potato in McCarthy and relaxed in our van to the rumbling sounds of the calving glacier nearby.

Day 4: Flightseeing Wrangell-St. Elias National Park – Root Glacier Hike – Valdez

The next morning started out great! The sun was shining, and everything indicated that a fantastic flightseeing trip was ahead of us. We had booked this flight with Wrangell Mountain Air. An elderly woman from Montana, going by the name Charlotte, picked us up from the footbridge and shuttled us to the airfield. She was such a friendly, fun and just lovely person to talk to, who shared very interesting village stories with us. Thanks to her, we really got a sense of what it’s like to live in such a remote village. Additionally, she mentioned that only very few of her co-workers had ever seen Mt. St. Elias on their staff flights, since its peak is often covered in clouds. If you are reading this, thank you, Charlotte! You really contributed to our great day!

From there, everything went pretty fast. At the airfield, we agreed to extend our flight to a 90-minute trip instead of 70-minute one, as the weather conditions looked better for the longer route. Opting for this alternative meant that we would fly over the Bagley Icefield, North America’s second-largest nonpolar icefield, and might be able to see Mt. St. Elias. A word and a blow! We climbed into a small Cessna aircraft and our pilot, Keane from New Mexico, maneuvered us safely into the air. During the flight, he pointed out interesting views and peaks, explaining facts about the area. The views were simply incredible. Snow-capped mountain tops rolled by our windows, and we even got to witness mountain goats hanging out on the peaks. There are no words to describe how fascinating it was to fly over the massive Bagley Icefield. You have to experience it for yourself. We couldn’t believe our eyes when Mt. St. Elias, the second-highest peak in the U.S. and Canada, revealed itself to us. What majesty! Mount Logan, the highest mountain in Canada, was also clearly visible. Back on the ground, we still couldn’t grasp what a life-changing 90 minutes we had just experienced.

Charlotte was kind enough to drop us off at the starting point for the Root Glacier hike (distance: 4 mi/ 6.4 km). The relatively easy trail, with moderate elevation gain, departs from Kennecott Mill Town. Don’t forget to bring your crampons/spikes, as you will actually walk on the glacier. You could also take a guided tour, but we thought it wasn’t necessary, given that there are other hikers up there, which helps you orient yourself. However, it’s very important to stay safe at all times, watch out for crevasses, and avoid walking along the edges. The glacier itself is staggering, especially the ice-blue glacier pools that you can spot along the way.

After this hike, we took the shuttle back to McCarthy and exited Wrangell-St. Elias National Park by driving out McCarthy Road. Next, we drove 119 miles southwest to Valdez on the scenic Richardson Highway. We had already considered the Glenn Highway unsurpassable in beauty – until we drove this road. A drive down the Richardson Highway offers views of spectacular glaciers, waterfalls cascading over towering canyon walls, tall mountains and expansive scenery. When crossing Thompson Pass, we encountered winter conditions with high piles of snow along the road. From the road, you also get a breathtaking view of Worthington Glacier. While driving, you may want to pull over from time to time to take in the majesty of this magnificent scenery. We stopped at various pull-outs, which is why we arrived in Valdez a bit later than expected.

Valdez lies on the shores of Prince William Sound, and is surrounded by high mountain peaks. This town also marks the southern terminus of the trans-Alaska pipeline. Upon arriving, we spotted our first Alaskan bear, right next to the road, rummaging in the ditch. Our last item for the day was a visit to the Solomon Gulch Hatchery, where you can take a self-guided outdoor tour anytime. During salmon season, you can spot seals, and with a bit of luck, bears, stilling their hunger.

Pro tip: Take a kayaking trip from Valdez to Valdez Glacier. We didn’t get to do this since Valdez Glacier Lake was still frozen, which was rather untypical for that time of the year.

Day 5: Ferry to Whittier – Fishing on the Twentymile River – Homer

There were basically two options to get from Valdez to the Kenai Peninsula, which juts from the southcentral coast of Alaska. Either you take the car for a good 6-hour ride or board the ferry early in the morning and chill out on deck for almost 6-hours. The tickets aren’t cheap, but reasonably priced (we paid $264 for 2 pers plus van) and you are bound to the ferry schedule. Nevertheless, we would definitely suggest taking the boat. It was such a beautiful cruise, through the (that day) calm waters of Alaska and we even got to see humpback whales jumping up and down in the ocean and sea otters floating on the water surface. Additionally, there are waterfalls along the route and the captain pointed out several mountain goats. The whole crew was very hard-working and courteous and you could really tell that this ship is very well-run and organized. The food was also good and the restrooms were very clean.

From the ferry’s landing in Whittier, there’s a narrow, one-lane tunnel, the longest highway tunnel in North America (2.5 miles), that connects you to the peninsula. Allow enough time for passing the tunnel, as this tunnel is shared by trains and cars going in both directions, which might cause delays. Driving directly over the railroad tracks is a unique feature of the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel and makes this ride an adventure.

After the tunnel, we went straight to our guided fishing trip with Hope Fishing Charters, LLC. on the Twentymile River. Our guides Josh and Jenny picked us up from the gravel area at the base of the river (mile 80.5 of the New Seward Hwy) and escorted us to their self-built jet boat, which can float over shallow riverbeds. Josh steered the boat upstream with full-speed, making this a very fun ride. Not for the faint of heart though! After around an hour-long scenic boat trip, we reached our fishing spot with a backdrop of glaciers and vast untouched nature. We literally were in the middle of “nowhere,” with a good chance to see bears, moose and bald eagles. Well, we weren’t as lucky as expected, it was still early in the season. Josh and Jenny were very patient and really wanted us get the most out of this trip, which is why we ended up fishing at various spots. At the end of the day, we caught two, absolutely delicious, Dolly Varden trout, that we grilled on our way down to Homer for dinner. All in all, this fishing trip was absolutely stunning, especially the scenery and the fun boat trip. We didn’t want to fish (endangered!) halibut and it was still too early in the season to fish for Sockeye salmon, so we opted for this river fishing adventure and recommend it a 100%.

Pro tip: You need a fishing license in Alaska. Don’t forget to buy one online before going on a guided trip.

Thanks to the long daylight in Alaska at this time of the year, we reached Homer after a 175-mile drive when the sun had just set behind the horizon at around midnight.

Day 6: Bear-watching in Chinitna Bay – Lake Clark National Park – Homer

Day 6 was the most exciting day of this trip! We had booked a full-day guided wilderness bear viewing tour with Alaska Bear Adventures from Homer to Chinitna Bay, which lies across the Cook Inlet on Lake Clark National Park’s coastline. This area is accessible just by boat or plane. After a short instruction, we climbed into the Cessna 206 bush plane together with three other guests. The weather was very cloudy, which made the flight rather bumpy. Just as we got across the Inlet, the clouds cleared up and opened up a spectacular view onto several volcanoes that are a part of the Pacific ring of fire.

After an hour in the air, we landed directly on the beach. It couldn’t get more remote than that. The only thing that disturbs this remote feeling a bit is a newly installed webcam on private land, that livestreams the bears. Behind the beach, there is a vast salt marsh area, where we could experience world class brown bear viewing. Already from the first outlook we were able to see as many as nine rather big brown bears, pigging out on sedges. In this habitat, they can find plentiful food from spring until fall, when they return to their dens. In late spring, they feed on sedges, which are rich in protein, and also on clams on the beach. During our three hours on the ground, we went to three viewing areas together with our pilot, who was also a trained bear guide. It was simply beautiful to see so many grizzly bears, peacefully grazing on sedge grass against the backdrop of towering, snow-capped mountains in the Alaskan wilderness. We could also witness one bear scavenging and digging for clams on the beach, which was simply incredible. Almost at the end of our time on the ground, some bears suddenly started to get really active. One male was chasing a female and they came very, very close to us, which was stunning and yet, a bit scary. Our pilot did a fantastic job in keeping us safe the entire time. Other bears started getting playful in a rather romantic manner, nothing for minors.

The return flight was rather rough and we do have to say that we were pretty glad when we eventually touched ground in Homer. In the late afternoon, we checked out Bishops Beach and the Homer Spit, which is dotted with shops and restaurants. We ate at the Swell Taco Place and the food was really good and reasonably priced. A visit to the Two Sisters Bakery is also to recommend.

If you want to take a Halibut fishing-trip, Homer is the place as it is often dubbed “the halibut fishing capital of the world.”

Hidden gem: The best food we could find in Homer was definitely at the very hidden Johnny’s Corner place. Their bowls are bursting with different flavors and textures. The food really was extremely fresh and tasted out of this world. They serve directly out of their little shop window and offer plenty of seating outside.

Pro tip 1 – Fly vs. cruise: You could also access Chinitna Bay via boat. We seriously considered doing a boat trip, as this option is way cheaper. We ultimately decided against it mainly because of two reasons: For one, we had watched the Alaska YouTube-video by Huckberry and found that flying through the mountains and valleys, around volcanoes, was simply not to miss. Also, we deemed the rather unreliable ocean conditions in the Cook Inlet rather off-putting. Being stuck on a boat for four to five hours when the seas are rough didn’t seem too attractive to us. However, we do have to highlight that the plane ride was also rather choppy and nothing for the faint of heart. This flight was by far the bumpiest one on this trip.

Pro tip 2 – Best time & place: When doing a bear watching trip, keep an eye out on where you want to go and the time of the year. Chinitna Bay, for example, offers great bear watching especially in the spring. In (late) summer, the bears head to the rivers at the head of the bay to fish for salmon. Since there’s a lot of private property in this area of the bay, it may be difficult to spot the bears there. Also, the inside of Lake Clark Nationalpark only provides good bear viewing chances in late July and through August. Additionally, don’t go to Katmai (Brooks Falls) any other month than July, because you won’t see many (if any) bears in the falls. Previously, we had also looked into doing a trip to Brooks Falls, the area famous for bears fishing salmon in the waterfalls. We opted for Chinitna Bay not just because of our time of travel but also because of the rather touristy vibe, steep prices, huge crowds and rather “zoo-experience” we felt for Brooks Falls. Also, keep in mind, that the remoteness character of this trip might be diminished if you go during high season, as there may be many other planes in Chinitna Bay as well.

Pro tip 3 – Food: Bring only packaged and non-crumbly food stored in a bear resistant food container. Additionally, if you did a fishing trip before, like we had done, do not wear the same jacket/gloves/etc. from the fishing trip. The bears will smell the fish!

Pro tip 4 – Restrooms: There is a little pit toilet in Chinitna Bay, in case you have to answer the call of nature.

Pro tip 5 – Costs: This day trip was expensive (check for the current prices on their website: https://alaskabearviewing.com/), there’s no sugarcoating it. But, experiencing so many grizzlies in a paradise-like, remote setting, is really just worth it. You could save some money by taking the boat. In our case, the weather was good for the outgoing flight, whereas the return flight was mainly through thick clouds, blocking our view. So, you basically pay for the flightseeing part of the trip as well, but might not be able to see anything. And, speaking of not seeing anything, after taking this trip, we read that some people went on a bear-watching adventure and did not see a single bear. So, this is highly unlikely, but it might as well happen. That’s probably something to keep in mind.

Day 7: Halibut Cove – Saddle and Grewingk Lake Hike – Seward

Day 7 of this trip was again very eventful. In the morning, we took a water taxi from Homer to Halibut Cove. There are several taxi providers; we went with Mako’s Water Taxi and were very satisfied. Halibut Cove is a hidden jewel tucked away in Kachemak Bay State Park. The boat ride through the stunning Kachemak Bay, where the shimmering waters are framed by towering cliffs and lush greenery, was just breathtaking. We were also treated to spotting sea otters. The boat ride was a perfect introduction to the natural beauty and serenity that awaited us at the Saddle Trailhead. The hike was easy to moderate (distance: 4.5 mi/ 7.3 km; elevation gain: 790 ft/240 m) and finished at the beautiful Grewingk Lake, which was dotted with floating icebergs. The icebergs where, besides the scenery, the true highlight of this hike. However, if you decide to go later in the year, they might not be around anymore.

Around midday, our taxi picked us up at the agreed time and brought us back to Homer. From there, we drove around 3.5 hours to Seward.

Pro tip: On the way to Seward, we stopped at Anchor Point, which was THE perfect spot to observe bald eagles at a very close distance. This spot was recommended to us by a couple from Poland that we met on Root Glacier and it really did not disappoint. The views are great there and we got really up-close with many bald eagles.

Day 8: Kenai Fjords National Park Cruise – Exit Glacier – Seward – Denali Viewpoint

Early in the morning, we left our mesmerizing camping spot, to take a boat tour of Kenai Fjords National Park with Major Marine Tours. During check-in, we were warned that there was an 80% chance the boat wouldn’t make it to the tidewater glacier because of the rough seas. Many people canceled for a refund, but we decided to push through. After all, this was our only chance to go on this cruise during the trip! Quite a few people got very seasick on board, but the crew was outstanding in caring for everyone. In general, we’ve never experienced such a professional and attentive crew on any of our trips. The captain, a very knowledgeable woman went above and beyond to show us as much wildlife as possible, kept us safe on-board, and made sure we had enough time to observe animals. And, hurray, we made it to Aialik Glacier. This was especially exciting because Aialik had been our top choice; usually, the tour goes to Holgate Glacier, which would have been spectacular as well, but the stormy conditions only made Aialik accessible. During the cruise, we saw humpback whales, with one even feeding at the surface, sea lions, puffins, eagles, sea otters and seals floating on ice floes together with their pups. Aialik Glacier itself was just awe-inspiring. Hundreds of sea lions against the backdrop of a gigantic wall of thick ice piling up in front of us. On our way back, we were served “glacier cocktails” – with “real,” thousands of years old ice. A fellow passenger we’d helped earlier during the rough ride treated us to a cocktail, and it was delicious! Don’t miss this unique experience if you get the chance.

After this exciting cruise, it was just a short drive to Exit Glacier. Initially, we had planned to hike up to the Harding Icefield, but the trail was still frozen. Therefore, we opted for the Glacier Overlook Trail instead. Along the trail, there are many signs showing how much the glacier has receded over time, which was a shocking sight. However, the trail and the overlook itself were rather disappointing to be honest; the glacier has retreated so significantly that there’s little to see from the viewpoint. The glacier, unfortunately, is mostly hidden from view at this point.

Despite deciding to skip Denali National Park due to the extensive road closures, we hadn’t given up on seeing Denali, also known as Mount McKinley, the tallest mountain in North America. The forecast that day was favorable for spotting its peak – a rare opportunity, as the summit is often shrouded in clouds. So, this seemed like a potential lucky strike. Call us crazy, but we drove almost 5 hours from Exit Glacier to Denali Viewpoint South just to see Mr. Denali. And it was worth it – Denali revealed itself in its full glory! We couldn’t believe our eyes, there he was. We had caught a glimpse of its peak poking through the clouds when flying into Anchorage, but seeing it up close was an entirely different experience. This viewpoint undoubtedly is one the best places to view Denali, perhaps even better than from inside the park, according to some reports. There’s ample parking and restroom facilities, so we decided to spend the night there (camping fees apply, payable at a machine in the lot) and enjoyed breathtaking views of Denali from our van window.

Pro tip 1 – Denali Webcam: Check the Denali webcam before driving to either of the Denali viewpoints.

Pro tip 2 – More Viewpoints: Other Denali viewpoints that we’d read about:

• Denali Viewpoint North: There’s also a Denali Viewpoint North, which is said to be not as amazing as the South one. We just went to the one in the south.
• Anchorage Area: Denali View Point Kincaid Park. Good view from the hill behind the soccer stadium at Kincaid Park/ Earthquake Park.
• Talkeetna Village
• Petersville Road (dirt road! Just for 4WD vehicles recommended)
• Pullouts along the road from Anchorage up to the Denali View Point South and North (George Parks Highway)
• Inside the Denali National Park, especially at Eielson Visitor Center

Pro tip 3 – Denali Viewpoint South: The view here is absolutely stunning and unequaled anywhere outside the national park itself. Make sure to not stop in the overlook area right by the parking lot and continue the path up to the right for around 8 minutes as you will reach another overlook point, which is even more spectacular.

Day 9: Talkeetna – Hope – Girdwood – Anchorage

In the morning, we decided to pay Talkeetna a short visit. We felt really lucky, as the weather had turned cloudy and Denali was hiding behind a thick layer of clouds. Talkeetna itself has a historic old-town vibe, though it is very touristy. Unfortunately, the Flying Squirrel Bakery wasn’t open, so we opted for spinach bread at the Talkeetna Spinach Bread food truck instead. Well, it was delicious!

Since our exploration of the Kenai Peninsula wasn’t complete, we decided to head back to where we had left off before our Denali detour. More precisely, we drove to Hope, a quaint, historic old village that has managed to retain its authenticity. After a short walk around the village, we spotted a cute baby moose along its mother grazing in the lush grass, already dotted with lovely spring blossoms, we headed on to our next stop, Girdwood. As avid skiers, we simply couldn’t miss checking out this local ski area. In summer, Girdwood offers downhill mountain biking and hiking (arial tramway is running in summer). Our impression was that Girdwood is primarily a resort town, though we could be mistaken! To our surprise, we even found ourselves on Arlberg Avenue – a fun coincidence, as Arlberg is the name of a famous ski resort in Austria!

Pro tip – Hope: Be sure to swing by the Seaview Café, especially at the weekend, when they play live music. Unfortunately, this cute spot underwent renovation when we were there.

Day 10: Anchorage (Souvenir Shopping) — Return Flight

On this day, we went back to the Ulu Knife factory and did some souvenir shopping before returning our van at the drop-off location.

Finally, HOW tackle Alaska?

How did we get around?

As you might’ve already figured out by this point, we hired a camper van for our Alaska trip. In our opinion, traveling with a camper van is an ideal way to experience Alaska, offering unparalleled freedom and flexibility to explore the rugged landscapes and remote areas at your own pace. With a camper van, you’re not limited to hotel locations or rigid schedules, allowing you to venture off the beaten path, stay overnight at scenic overlooks, and even change your plans on a whim to follow the best weather or wildlife sightings. Alaska’s vast and diverse terrain, from mountains and glaciers to forests and coastlines, becomes more accessible when you have your lodging, kitchen, and transport all in one place. You can camp at breathtaking spots, waking up to stunning views and enjoying meals surrounded by nature.

We also considered renting a car with a rooftop tent, but given the abundant wildlife (keyword: bears!) and the often chilly weather in Alaska during May, we opted for a camper van instead. The van provided a cozy shelter from Alaska’s unpredictable weather, adding both comfort and security in the wilderness.

We rented our van from River Wild Campers, a family-run business, and couldn’t have been happier with our choice. Their vans are beautifully crafted inside, with wood paneling, charming artwork behind the sink, and an ideal layout that shows the owners’ dedication and love for their vehicles. This was by far the most comfortable, pretty and just practical van we have ever rented, adding an extra layer of specialness to our Alaskan adventure (Just to note, we’re not affiliated with River Wild Campers and aren’t compensated for mentioning them – they may not even know!).

Another option would be staying at various inns, which, from our calculations, costs about the same as renting a van. However, the real money-saver with a camper van is on food. Dining out in Alaska can be quite pricey, and while grocery prices are also high, we do think that if you plan (and cook) wisely, cooking your own meals saves you quite a bit.

Pro tip 1 – Heating: We strongly recommend renting a camper van equipped with a stationary heating.

Pro tip 2 – Car/Van Rental: If you’re planning to visit Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, be sure to check with your rental company to confirm whether they allow driving on McCarthy Road, the route that leads into the park. We also highly recommend renting a 4-wheel-drive vehicle, especially for navigating the often rugged conditions of McCarthy Road.

How is mobile coverage in Alaska?

We didn’t encounter any major issues with cell phone reception in the places we visited. There were, of course, some nights when we had no signal, but overall, it was better than expected. However, this only applies to the locations we traveled to; coverage can vary significantly depending on where you are in the State (especially the more remote North!).

Pro tip: Be sure to download an offline version of Google Maps for Alaska to ensure you’re covered, even in areas without signal.

Finally, don’t forget bear spray!